The steamer Ilala drops anchor off the beach at Chipyela. From the sand, an unpaved slope of less than five hundred meters leads up toward the village, and at the top of the rise you encounter an unexpected sight on an island of fishing settlements: a granite cathedral nearly a hundred meters long, with twin square towers, an iron roof, and arched windows, standing among mango and baobab trees.
This is St Peter's Cathedral on Likoma Island in Lake Malawi, an Anglican cathedral that the library groups under the broader Protestant branch. Malawi is a country where the majority of the population practices Christianity, a faith that arrived along the lake through late nineteenth-century missions. The library selected Likoma as the sole representative of Malawi because this island once served as the headquarters of the Anglican mission for the entire lake region, and because the cathedral stands intact as tangible testimony to that era.
ISaint Peter, the Mission, and the Title of Cathedral on an Island
The cathedral is dedicated to Saint Peter, leader of the Twelve Apostles, who worked as a fisherman on the Sea of Galilee before following Jesus. The memoirs compiled by former Archbishop Donald Arden record that at its consecration in 1911, the building was called the Cathedral Church of St Peter. Having a fisherman saint as patron of a church on an island sustained by fishing carries an immediate meaning that islanders understand without explanation.
The word cathedral denotes the church that holds the bishop's cathedra, or episcopal seat. Likoma has a cathedral because from the 1880s onward, the Universities' Mission to Central Africa (UMCA) established its headquarters on the island, according to the Malawi tourism board. The bishop overseeing the lake region resided here, and the prelate who consecrated the building in 1911 was Bishop Thomas Fisher of the Diocese of Nyasaland, the former name of the territory.
Anglicanism is the branch of Christianity that separated from Rome in sixteenth-century England, retaining the historic episcopate, the sacraments, and common prayer shaped by liturgical books while recognizing Scripture as the foundational authority alongside Reformed churches. An Anglican cathedral therefore has an altar, a sanctuary, choir stalls, and stained glass, looking closer to a Catholic church than to a plain Protestant meeting house. On Likoma, the entire congregation sings the liturgy in the local language, and for Anglicans, that shared singing is itself prayer.
Which diocese this cathedral belongs to can easily cause confusion, as the Anglican dioceses in Malawi have been reorganized several times. Donald Arden's memoirs note that the cathedral later belonged to the Diocese of Lake Malawi, and according to the news site Anglican Ink, Likoma currently falls under the Diocese of Lake Malawi. Search results also point to references associating the island with the Diocese of Northern Malawi, though the library has not opened an official diocesan register confirming that boundary, so this article follows Anglican Ink. In September 2026, Anglican Ink reported that the Anglican Church in Malawi approved the creation of three new dioceses, including a Diocese of Likoma, expected to begin operating in early 2027, while the formal designation of cathedral churches remained to be finalized. All three new dioceses are being carved out of the current Diocese of Lake Malawi. The same report notes that Likoma Island was formerly the seat of the Diocese of Nyasaland and later of the old Diocese of Likoma. Readers seeking current administrative confirmation should consult the local church directly.
Travel guides often repeat the claim that Likoma Cathedral is the same size as Winchester Cathedral in England. Both the Malawi tourism website and Lonely Planet mention this comparison, with Lonely Planet qualifying it as reputed. The measurements do not match: Likoma is 320 feet long, or about 97.5 meters, whereas Winchester is one of the longest medieval cathedrals in Europe and far exceeds that length. One photo site even calls Likoma the largest cathedral in Africa, a claim unsupported by any source the library has consulted. Stated plainly, this is a remarkably large church for the small island on which it stands, and that fact alone is striking enough.
The mother church of the entire Anglican Communion is Canterbury Cathedral. In Southern Africa, the library also features St. George's Cathedral, Cape Town, and within the same Church of the Province of Central Africa as Likoma is Cathedral of St Mary and All Saints, Harare. Those two stand in major cities. Likoma differs in standing on an island with no paved road linking it to the mainland.
IIEight Years of Building a Cathedral by Hand
The history of the building falls into three stages: construction from 1903 to 1911, continuous use for more than half a century, and a major restoration that saved its roof and towers. Most memorable is how it was built. Donald Arden's account records that the local granite, hard and difficult to dress, was quarried right on the island, mortar was mixed from termite-mound earth called dothi, bricks were fired on the opposite mainland shore, and every load was carried to the site on the heads of porters, a large number of whom were women.
- 1880sUMCA headquarters established on the islandThe Universities' Mission to Central Africa chose Likoma as its headquarters for the lake region, according to the Malawi tourism board.
- 1899Architect Frank George arrivesThe architect who designed and supervised the building of the cathedral. He remained with the mission for many years after its completion.
- 1903Construction beginsWork began early in the year, using granite quarried on the island and local islanders as builders.
- 1905First dedicationOn 29 September, St Michael's Day, the completed portion of the cathedral was dedicated and the first service was held.
- 1908Bells hung and clock startedIn September 1908 the bells were hung in the tower and the clock was assembled and started, according to Donald Arden's account.
- 1911ConsecrationOn 14 November Bishop Thomas Fisher consecrated the cathedral, opening with a Requiem Eucharist for deceased builders. The octagonal library beside it was blessed on the same occasion.
- 1917The architect ordained priestFrank George was ordained deacon in England in 1916 and ordained priest in 1917 inside the very cathedral he had designed and built.
- 1968 to 1976Major rebuilding and restorationBoth towers were taken down, given new foundations, and rebuilt, while termite-damaged roof timbers were replaced with steel. The cathedral was rededicated on 10 October 1976.
Three points differ across the sources. First is the construction date. Donald Arden's account and the Malawi tourism website both record that work began in 1903 and the first dedication took place in 1905. Lonely Planet states briefly that it was built in 1911, which is actually the year of consecration. The library follows the first two sources and lists each milestone clearly.
Second is the restoration period. The library's initial data table noted 1971 to 1976. Re-examining Donald Arden's account shows that the demolition of both crumbling towers began in December 1968, while the shipment of 50 tons of materials from Blantyre under Danny McKee, a young Presbyterian builder from Belfast, began in July and August 1971. The certain closing milestone of the restoration is the rededication on 10 October 1976.
Third is the fate of the two towers. In a letter dated 17 October 1976 at the end of his account, Donald Arden explains that the builders photographed the intricate brickwork, pulled both towers down to ground level, laid new reinforced concrete foundations, and rebuilt the two towers in 1975 and 1976 so carefully that only an expert could tell original 1903 masonry from the rebuilt work. That explains why Lonely Planet notes that visitors can still climb the tower.
IIIA Granite Cruciform Plan, Stained Glass, and Carved Soapstone
The floor plan of the cathedral is cruciform: a long nave running east to west intersected by a transept running north to south. The walls are built of island granite, with arches and detailing in brick and a roof of corrugated iron. According to Donald Arden's account, only three materials had to be shipped from England: cement, roofing iron, and glass. The main structure covers 17,600 square feet, or about 1,635 square meters. The full plan was larger still, reaching 37,000 square feet when including the chapter house, library, and cloisters. The octagonal library was blessed in 1911, the chapter house was built from 1913, and the Lady Chapel at the east end is also documented in later roof repairs.
Inside, the Malawi tourism board highlights two features: stained glass and carved soapstone. Soapstone is a soft stone easy to carve and familiar to artisans around the lake. Travel Adventures adds painted angels on the walls, a clock, and a stone plaque commemorating the foundation, while noting candidly that many window panes are broken and parts of the walls show wear.
About 97.5 meters measured from east to west, with the north-to-south transept measuring 85 feet, or about 26 meters. For an island of a few villages, these are the dimensions of a city cathedral.
Granite quarried on the island, hard and difficult to work. Mortar mixed from termite-mound earth called dothi along with lime and bricks burned on the opposite mainland shore.
Glass shipped from England alongside soapstone from the lake region. Placing the two side by side shows the building as a shared work of both sides.
Bells hung and the clock started in September 1908, three years before the consecration.
An eight-sided building beside the cathedral, built by Albert Crabb from Frank George's plans and blessed on the day of consecration in 1911.
| Feature | Figure | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Architect | Frank George, arrived on the island in 1899 | Donald Arden's account |
| East-west length | 320 feet, about 97.5 m | Donald Arden's account |
| North-south transept | 85 feet, about 26 m | Donald Arden's account |
| Area of main building | 17,600 square feet | Donald Arden's account, full scheme 37,000 square feet |
| Distance from beach to cathedral | Under 500 m uphill | Lonely Planet |
IVLandform and Orientation
The builders of Likoma Cathedral were Anglican missionaries, and Anglicanism has no tradition of geomancy. What they followed was the liturgical orientation of Western churches: the body of the church lies along an east-west axis, with the altar at the east end toward the rising sun. The measurements in Donald Arden's account confirm this, with 320 feet running east to west and 85 feet across the north-south transept. The site itself was determined by Chipyela village and the mission's boat landing. The section below applies traditional Vietnamese landform reading to an island in a lake so readers familiar with that tradition have a point of comparison. It does not appear in any church document, and should not be taken as the intention of the builders.
First is the island setting. Likoma is a small island set in Lake Malawi, one of the largest and deepest freshwater lakes in Africa, lying closer to the Mozambican shore than to the Malawian mainland. Traditional Vietnamese landform texts regard water as that which retains vital energy, summed up in the saying that energy halts where it meets water. A piece of land surrounded by water on all four sides, in that reading, is ground from which energy cannot disperse. Classical texts call land rising amid water land within water (thủy trung địa), prized for its stillness, while noting that such ground is isolated and can only be reached by boat.
Second is the high ground above the landing. The cathedral does not sit at the water's edge, but up the slope less than five hundred meters from the beach. Looking up from the landing, you see the church, and looking down from the church, you see the lake. Traditional geomancy describes this as having support behind and gathered water in front, with the calm lake before the fishing village serving as the bright hall (Bright Hall (Ming Tang)), the open expanse before a place of worship.
Third is the opposite shore. From the island, the Mozambican mainland appears clearly to the east as a low ridge across a narrow channel of water. Geomancers call a distant ridge in front a front screen (án), a screen keeping energy from drifting away. By coincidence, the east end of the cathedral, where the altar stands, also faces that direction. That alignment comes from liturgical custom rather than landform theory.
VObservances of the Anglican Calendar on the Island
The cathedral follows the Anglican liturgical calendar of the Church of the Province of Central Africa, with fixed feasts reckoned by the solar calendar and movable feasts calculated around Easter each year. What the sources record most reliably is also the most regular observance: the Sunday morning service. Lonely Planet notes that the service is lively and open to visitors, and the Malawi tourism board writes that the cathedral remains well attended by parishioners. For dates specific to the cathedral, the library lists only those grounded in the general calendar and the building's documented history. Because the consulted sources do not describe how the parish celebrates those annual milestones today, the table below adds no unverified details.
| Date | Calendar | Observance | Details |
|---|---|---|---|
| Every Sunday | Anglican calendar, weekly | Sunday Eucharist | The best-attended service of the week, with congregational singing, open to visitors. |
| 29 June | Anglican calendar, solar | Feast of Saint Peter the Apostle | Feast day of the cathedral's patron saint in the general calendar. |
| 29 September | Anglican calendar, solar | Feast of Saint Michael and All Angels | Date on which the cathedral was first dedicated in 1905. |
| 14 November | Solar calendar, anniversary | Anniversary of Consecration | Date on which Bishop Thomas Fisher consecrated the cathedral in 1911. |
| Varies by year | Anglican calendar, reckoned by Easter | Holy Week and Easter | The principal season of the liturgical year in every Anglican church. |
| 25 December | Anglican calendar, solar | Christmas Day | On Likoma, Christmas falls during the warm rainy season of the Southern Hemisphere. |
The library found no sources documenting Vietnamese community activity on Likoma Island or at this cathedral, and therefore includes no section on overseas Vietnamese.
VILocation And How To Get There
- Address
- Chipyela, đảo Likoma, hồ Malawi
- Getting there
- The cathedral stands in Chipyela village on Likoma Island, less than 500 meters uphill from the boat landing. Visitors reach the island via the MV Ilala ferry operating along Lake Malawi or by small aircraft, according to the Malawi tourism board.
- Coordinates
- -12.0653, 34.7355
This is an active church serving the community living around it, not an empty monument. Lonely Planet notes that visitors are welcome at the Sunday service, and those who attend should remain with the congregation until the service concludes. Outside service hours, ask the caretaker in Chipyela village if you wish to view the interior or climb the tower. Dress modestly, do not step into the sanctuary around the altar, and because many window panes and wall sections are fragile, do not touch the stained glass or carved stone.
Nearby places in the library
VIIContribute To This Page
Contribute photos, information or video for St Peter's Cathedral, Likoma
Contribute photos, historical notes, or videos for St Peter's Cathedral, LikomaEveryone is welcome to enrich this page: a photo you took, a detail the page misses, a short video. Every contribution is read and answered.
Master Ưng Khiêm invites the community to enrich this page. On-site photographs, historical details not yet mentioned, or short video clips: every contribution is personally reviewed and answered.
No community contribution yet. You could be the first. No community contributions yet. Be the first to contribute.
?Quick Questions
What religion does the cathedral on Likoma Island belong to?
It is an Anglican cathedral within the Church of the Province of Central Africa, part of the worldwide Anglican Communion, built by the UMCA mission and dedicated to Saint Peter the Apostle. The library groups Anglicanism under the broader Protestant branch, though worship here retains an altar, stained glass, and the historic episcopate.
When was St Peter's Cathedral on Likoma built?
Construction began in early 1903, the building was first dedicated on 29 September 1905, and it was consecrated on 14 November 1911. Some guidebooks state simply that it was built in 1911, which is the year of consecration. The cathedral underwent major rebuilding and was rededicated on 10 October 1976.
Is Likoma Cathedral really the same size as Winchester Cathedral?
That is a popular claim in travel guides. According to the measurements in former Archbishop Donald Arden's account, Likoma Cathedral is 320 feet (about 97.5 meters) long and 85 feet across the transepts. Winchester Cathedral in England is much longer. Likoma is vast in relation to its small island, not in comparison to Winchester.
Who designed St Peter's Cathedral on Likoma?
The British architect Frank George, who arrived on the island in 1899 with the UMCA mission. After the cathedral was completed, he was ordained deacon in 1916 and ordained priest in 1917 inside the very church he had designed and built.
How do visitors get to Likoma Island to see the cathedral?
Likoma Island lies in Lake Malawi near the Mozambican shore. According to the Malawi tourism board, visitors reach the island on the MV Ilala ferry or by small plane. From the Chipyela beach landing, the cathedral is less than 500 meters uphill, according to Lonely Planet.