Travelling into the Seven Mountains region in Ba Chúc Commune, about two hundred meters east of the base of Mount Tượng (Liên Hoa Sơn), pilgrims come upon two major temples of the Tứ Ân Hiếu Nghĩa tradition standing directly across the main road from each other, namely Phi Lai Pagoda and Tam Bửu Pagoda. Phi Lai Pagoda was built in 1877 by Master Ngô Lợi (Đức Bổn Sư Ngô Lợi, 1831 - 1890) and his disciples on the site of the temporary shrine erected when he first led settlers to clear the land and establish four villages around Mount Tượng, joined with An Định Communal House in the traditional communal-house-in-front, pagoda-in-back (tiền đình hậu tự) layout.
Unlike Northern-tradition Buddhist monasteries with large statues in the main sanctuary, Phi Lai Pagoda bears the unmistakable imprint of an indigenous Southern Vietnamese religious tradition rooted in Bửu Sơn Kỳ Hương. In front stands the open hall of An Định Communal House where villagers gather and celebrate the Kỳ Yên peace-praying festival, while behind stands the pagoda comprising a front hall (tiền điện) and a rear hall (hậu điện) draped with red and rose-crimson cloths without statues, where followers dressed in side-buttoned tunics with their hair coiled and fastened by a hairpin chant scriptures and practice the Four Debts of Gratitude.

IThe place of Phi Lai Pagoda within the Tứ Ân Hiếu Nghĩa tradition
The Tứ Ân Hiếu Nghĩa tradition (formerly called the Way of Venerating Forebears or the Hiếu Nghĩa Way by followers, now organized as the Tứ Ân Hiếu Nghĩa Buddhist Association) was founded by Master Ngô Lợi (also known as Ngô Viện or Năm Thiếp, 1831 - 1890) on the 5th day of the fifth lunar month of the Đinh Mão year (1867). Regarding the place where the faith was founded in 1867, publications of the Government Committee for Religious Affairs, People's Deputies Newspaper, and researcher Nguyễn Phong Vũ identify Cù Lao Ba (Vĩnh Trường Commune, An Phú District, An Giang Province), whereas the Gazetteer of An Giang names the Ba Chúc area. According to Nguyễn Phong Vũ's study in Religious Studies Review, before settling permanently at Mount Tượng, Master Ngô Lợi built the faith's first pagoda in Bình Long Commune and Bửu Khánh Pagoda on Cù Lao Ba. In 1876, he led his disciples into the wilderness around Mount Tượng (present-day Ba Chúc Commune) to clear farmland and gather settlers into the four villages of An Định, An Hòa, An Lập, and An Thành.
Upon first arriving at the foot of Mount Tượng, Master Ngô Lợi had a temporary shrine built on the present site of Phi Lai Pagoda so followers had a place for worship. Once community life stabilized in 1877, he had An Định Communal House and the full-scale Phi Lai Pagoda constructed on the site of that temporary shrine in the communal-house-in-front, pagoda-in-back arrangement. Directly across the road, he also established Tam Bửu Pagoda (begun in 1876 as a farm camp or thatched hermitage and completed as a full-scale temple in 1882), which housed the Royal Palanquin Throne (Long Đình) and became the central patriarchal seat (Tổ đình). Thus, in the sacred land of Ba Chúc, Tam Bửu Pagoda and Phi Lai Pagoda form the twin central sanctuaries of An Định Village, serving both as ritual centers and as spiritual anchors for residents of the four villages.
Regarding the exact founding date of Phi Lai Pagoda in the Đinh Sửu year 1877, the overview published by the Government Committee for Religious Affairs records November 19, 1877, whereas the Vietnamese Wikipedia entry records January 19, 1877. Field research by Nguyễn Phong Vũ (Religious Studies Review, no. 3, 2021, pages 79 - 80) documents that the Tứ Ân Hiếu Nghĩa tradition comprises 75 places of worship in total, including 37 inner-village sites across the four villages around Mount Tượng (15 pagodas, 4 communal houses, 14 shrines, and 4 mộc hương stilt pavilions) and 38 outer-village sites (some general summaries cite 40 inner-village and 35 outer-village sites). Among the 15 inner-village pagodas, only the two temples in An Định Village, Phi Lai Pagoda and Tam Bửu Pagoda, are designed with two separate architectural units, a front hall (tiền điện) and a rear hall (hậu điện), aligned along the main axis.
IIHistorical milestones from the founding of the four villages to the present
- 1876 - 1877Clearing land for the four villages and building Phi Lai Pagoda and An Định Communal HouseAfter leading settlers to the foot of Mount Tượng to establish the four villages of An Định, An Hòa, An Lập, and An Thành and erecting a temporary shrine in 1876, in 1877 (on January 19 or November 19) Master Ngô Lợi had Phi Lai Pagoda built in bamboo and thatch together with An Định Communal House and the Phi Lai mộc hương pavilion.
- 1885 - 1888Temple burnings and two rebuildings during Master Ngô Lợi's lifetimeIn the first lunar month of the Ất Dậu year (1885) and again in the Đinh Hợi year (1887), French colonial troops and forces led by Trần Bá Lộc marched into the four villages around Mount Tượng, burning temples, shrines, and homes. After each raid, Master Ngô Lợi and his followers returned to rebuild Phi Lai Pagoda and An Định Communal House in 1886 and 1888.
- 1949, 1969, 1979Three permanent reconstructions in the 20th centuryAfter Master Ngô Lợi passed away in 1890, the pagoda was cared for by senior disciples and the ritual opera troupe within the faith. According to Nguyễn Phong Vũ's research, during the 20th century Phi Lai Pagoda underwent three major renovations in 1949, 1969, and 1979 (with the mộc hương pavilion inside the grounds also renovated in 1979), resulting in the spacious two-tiered tile-roofed structure seen today.
- July 10, 1980Ranking as a National historical heritage siteOn July 10, 1980, Phi Lai Pagoda and the surrounding heritage complex in Ba Chúc were ranked as a National historical heritage site.
- 2010 - 2020Consolidation of the Tứ Ân Hiếu Nghĩa Buddhist AssociationThe community of followers consolidated its collective religious life under the name Tứ Ân Hiếu Nghĩa Religious Association from 2010, and since the Third Congress of Followers in 2020 has carried the name Tứ Ân Hiếu Nghĩa Buddhist Association, with Tam Bửu Pagoda and Phi Lai Pagoda in Ba Chúc serving as its central ritual complex.
IIICommunal-house-in-front, pagoda-in-back layout and aniconic altar system
The grounds of Phi Lai Pagoda connect directly with An Định Communal House in front according to the communal-house-in-front, pagoda-in-back (tiền đình hậu tự) layout. An Định Communal House venerates the chief tutelary deity Thành hoàng Bổn bảo Đương kiểng Thổ địa Chánh thần alongside the Founding Pioneers (Tiền hiền, Hậu hiền), the Nine Generations and Seven Ancestors (Cửu huyền thất tổ), and the Hundred Families (Bá tánh vạn dân). Within the pagoda compound also stands the Phi Lai mộc hương (built in 1877, renovated in 1979), a single-bay square stilt structure used to receive royal investiture scrolls and perform Kỳ Yên peace-praying rites.
In front of the main temple stands a tall banner pole (cột phướn) alongside the outdoor altars characteristic of the Tứ Ân Hiếu Nghĩa tradition, including the Heaven-Communicating altar (bàn Thông thiên), the Founding and Later Pioneers altar (bàn thờ Tiền hiền - Hậu hiền, where the loyal patriot Nguyễn Trung Trực is venerated on the Tiền hiền side and patriot scholar Cử Đa Nguyễn Hữu Huân on the Hậu hiền side according to sect tradition), and the Nine Ranks altar (bàn thờ Cửu phẩm).
Unlike the 13 smaller inner-village pagodas that have only a single main sanctuary, Phi Lai Pagoda and Tam Bửu Pagoda consist of two separate buildings, a front hall (tiền điện) and a rear hall (hậu điện), aligned along the central axis. At the center of the front hall in Phi Lai Pagoda stands the altar to the Jade Emperor (Ngọc Hoàng, whereas Tam Bửu Pagoda places Quan Thánh Đế Quân in this position) together with the Assembly of Buddhas altar (Western Ultimate Bliss, Tây phương cực lạc), flanked at its four corners by the Four Pillar Continent Deities (Tứ trụ thần Châu) and below by the Ten Courts of the Kings of Hell (Thập điện Diêm Vương). In the positions occupied by the Left and Right Destiny Officials in other temples, the front hall of Phi Lai Pagoda places altars to the Southern Dipper (Nam Tào) and Northern Dipper (Bắc Đẩu) and includes an altar to the Dragon-Heaven Dharma Protectors (Hộ pháp Long Thiên).
The rear hall stands behind the front hall as a solemn sanctuary venerating the Successive Patriarchs (Lịch đại tổ sư) in the front tier and three inner altars placing Quan Thánh in the center, the Three Teachings (Tam giáo) on the left, and the Bright Master (Minh Sư) on the right. Around the rear hall are arranged the altars of the Four Great Continents (Tứ đại thần châu, namely Pūrvavideha, Aparagodānīya, Jambudvīpa, and Uttarakuru) along with altars to the Nine Generations and Seven Ancestors and the Hundred Families. Every altar displays only a red or rose-crimson cloth and Chinese spirit tablets, without statues of Buddhas or deities.
According to Nguyễn Phong Vũ's field study (2021, pages 81 - 91), the clearest ritual distinction between the two major temples in An Định Village is that the front hall of Phi Lai Pagoda venerates the Jade Emperor at its center, sets four altars to the Four Pillar Continent Deities at the corners of the Western Ultimate Bliss altar, and honors Nam Tào - Bắc Đẩu and Hộ pháp Long Thiên, whereas Tam Bửu Pagoda venerates Quan Thánh Đế Quân at the center of its front hall, places an altar to the Buddha King (Phật Vương) before the front hall, and additionally venerates Master Tây An (Phật Thầy) and Phật Trùm in its rear hall.
IVThe lie of the land backed by Mount Tượng and facing the Ba Chúc plain
Mount Tượng (known in Sino-Vietnamese as Liên Hoa Sơn, Lotus Peak) is one of the seven emblematic peaks of the Seven Mountains range, rising about one hundred and forty-five meters amidst the low-lying plain of Ba Chúc Commune, with Mount Dài (Ngọa Long Sơn, Reclining Dragon Mountain) stretching across the southeast. In the late 19th century, the land around the base of Mount Tượng was still dense wilderness with secluded terrain, chosen by Master Ngô Lợi as a refuge to gather patriotic settlers and followers into four self-governing villages.
Phi Lai Pagoda and An Định Communal House sit on the level terrace east of the foot of Mount Tượng, only about two hundred meters from the cliff face and directly across the road from Tam Bửu Pagoda. Together, the two pagodas and two communal houses formed the architectural nucleus of old An Định Village, their backs resting against the rocky peak and their fronts looking out over the expansive rice paddies of the Ba Chúc plain.
Viewed through traditional form-school feng shui, Mount Tượng resembles a crouching elephant rising from the plain (or a lotus pedestal according to its literary name Liên Hoa Sơn), serving as the backing pillow mountain (hậu chẩm) sheltering the western rear of both Phi Lai Pagoda and Tam Bửu Pagoda. Farther to the southeast, the long ridge of Mount Dài (Ngọa Long Sơn) stretches like a grand outer screen across the Tri Tôn - Ba Chúc basin.
Siting Phi Lai Pagoda and An Định Communal House on the elevated ground right along the eastern base of the mountain kept the structures above the annual floodwaters while welcoming the morning sun and cool breezes across the open Ba Chúc plain in the bright hall (minh đường). The communal-house-in-front, pagoda-in-back arrangement nestled against the rocky slope fostered lively village solidarity in front while preserving a quiet sanctuary for worship behind.
The library notes that no published survey provides exact compass degree readings for the front and rear halls of Phi Lai Pagoda, so this reading of the lie of the land focuses on the topographic relationship between Mount Tượng and the Ba Chúc plain.
VKỳ Yên festivals, major commemoration days, and Studying Buddhism and Cultivating Human Virtue
At Phi Lai Pagoda and An Định Communal House, the religious life of Tứ Ân Hiếu Nghĩa followers unfolds throughout the year according to the traditional ritual calendar. The largest observances include the Kỳ Yên peace-praying festival held at the communal house and mộc hương pavilion, the anniversary of the founding of the faith (the 5th day of the fifth lunar month, coinciding with the Đoan Ngọ Festival), the birth anniversary of Master Ngô Lợi (also the 5th day of the fifth lunar month), and the death anniversary of Master Ngô Lợi (the 13th day of the tenth lunar month). On these occasions, tens of thousands of fellow practitioners (who affectionately address one another as thân bằng) from 16 provinces and cities across the Mekong Delta and Southeastern Vietnam make the pilgrimage to Ba Chúc to worship at both Tam Bửu Pagoda and Phi Lai Pagoda.
Followers of Tứ Ân Hiếu Nghĩa practice lay cultivation at home, observing vegetarian fasts four or ten days each month and taking the repayment of the Four Heavy Debts of Gratitude (to ancestors and parents, to the country, to the Three Jewels, and to compatriots and humanity) as their foundation. When entering Phi Lai Pagoda for ceremonies, elders and followers wear traditional black or white bà ba shirts or side-buttoned tunics (áo vạt hò), keep their hair coiled in an onion-shaped bun fastened with a hairpin, and chant scriptures such as the Bát Dương Sutra, Amitābha Sutra, Vajra Longevity Sutra, and Universal Gate Sutra to the solemn rhythm of bells and wooden fish.
VILocation And How To Get There
- Address
- Chân núi Tượng (Liên Hoa Sơn), khu An Định, xã Ba Chúc (thị trấn Ba Chúc cũ, huyện Tri Tôn cũ), tỉnh An Giang
- Getting there
- The pagoda stands east of the foot of Mount Tượng in Ba Chúc Commune (former Ba Chúc Town, former Tri Tôn District), An Giang Province. From Châu Đốc Ward (former Châu Đốc City), follow National Highway 91 and Provincial Road 948 or Provincial Road 955B through the Tịnh Biên area toward Ba Chúc Commune for about forty kilometers to reach the heritage cluster of Phi Lai Pagoda and Tam Bửu Pagoda at the foot of Mount Tượng.
- Coordinates
- 10.4997, 104.9091
Dress modestly and maintain a quiet, respectful demeanor when entering the front and rear halls of the pagoda as well as An Định Communal House in front.
Offerings presented at the altars inside the pagoda consist strictly of incense, fresh flowers, tea, pure water, and vegetarian fruit, never meat dishes.
Phi Lai Pagoda stands directly across the road from Tam Bửu Pagoda at the foot of Mount Tượng, so visitors can easily walk between both temples in a single visit to observe the parallels and distinctions in their altar arrangements.
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?Quick Questions
Is the Tứ Ân Hiếu Nghĩa religion at Phi Lai Pagoda the same as Hòa Hảo Buddhism
No. Both Tứ Ân Hiếu Nghĩa and Hòa Hảo Buddhism trace their spiritual roots to the Studying Buddhism and Cultivating Human Virtue (Học Phật Tu Nhân) teaching of the 19th-century Bửu Sơn Kỳ Hương tradition, but Tứ Ân Hiếu Nghĩa was founded by Master Ngô Lợi in 1867 and maintains its own distinct scriptures, liturgical chanting, communal-house-in-front and pagoda-in-back architecture, and independent organization under the Tứ Ân Hiếu Nghĩa Buddhist Association.
How are Phi Lai Pagoda and Tam Bửu Pagoda in Ba Chúc related to each other
The two pagodas stand directly opposite each other at the foot of Mount Tượng in old An Định Village. Phi Lai Pagoda was built on a full scale in 1877 together with An Định Communal House on the site of the initial temporary shrine, whereas Tam Bửu Pagoda was completed as a full-scale temple in 1882 together with Tam Bửu Communal House, housing the Royal Palanquin Throne (Long Đình) and serving as the central patriarchal seat (Tổ đình) of the Tứ Ân Hiếu Nghĩa Buddhist Association. They are the only two inner-village pagodas built with separate front and rear halls.
What does the communal-house-in-front, pagoda-in-back (tiền đình hậu tự) layout at Phi Lai Pagoda signify
Tiền đình hậu tự means that a village communal house stands in front (An Định Communal House, honoring the chief tutelary deity Thành hoàng Bổn bảo Đương kiểng Thổ địa Chánh thần and the founding pioneers who cleared the land) while a Buddhist pagoda stands behind (Phi Lai Pagoda, honoring the Buddhas and patriarchs). This layout reflects the core teaching of uniting village and national duty with Buddhist self-cultivation among pioneer settlers in the Seven Mountains.
How does the altar arrangement in the front hall of Phi Lai Pagoda differ from that of Tam Bửu Pagoda
According to field research by Nguyễn Phong Vũ (2021), the front hall of Phi Lai Pagoda places the Jade Emperor (Ngọc Hoàng) altar at its center, sets four altars to the Four Pillar Continent Deities at the corners of the Western Ultimate Bliss altar, and honors Nam Tào, Bắc Đẩu, and Hộ pháp Long Thiên. By contrast, Tam Bửu Pagoda places Quan Thánh Đế Quân at the center of its front hall, sets an altar to the Buddha King (Phật Vương) before the front hall, and additionally venerates Master Tây An (Phật Thầy) and Phật Trùm in its rear hall.